Some places make you wonder how on earth anyone ever decided to build there.
St Govan's Chapel, hidden within the limestone cliffs of the Pembrokeshire coast, is certainly one of them. Tucked away below the headland at Bosherston and reached by a long flight of steep stone steps, this tiny chapel seems almost to disappear into the rock itself.
While staying in Bosherston last week, we were simply looking for somewhere to stretch our legs when we came across St Govan's Chapel. I'd never heard of it before, but it turned out to be one of the highlights of our trip.
From the clifftop you can already see the tiny chapel nestled into the rocks below, giving you a good idea of just how unusual its setting is before you even begin the descent.
Like many early Welsh saints, the story of St Govan blends history with legend.
It is thought that Govan was a Christian hermit who came to this part of Pembrokeshire sometime during the sixth century. Some traditions suggest he was a follower of St David, while others believe he was an Irish monk seeking solitude.
According to legend, pirates were pursuing Govan along the cliffs. As he prayed for help, the rocks miraculously opened, allowing him to hide safely inside. Once the danger had passed, the rocks closed again, leaving him unharmed.
Whether or not the story is true, the dramatic setting makes it easy to understand how such legends came about.
Stepping inside, it is hard to believe just how small the chapel really is. The thick stone walls and low ceiling create an intimate space that has offered shelter and a place of worship for centuries.
The interior is simple, with a stone altar and benches built into the walls. There is little decoration, but that simplicity is part of its charm. Rather than grand architecture, it is the chapel's extraordinary location that leaves the greatest impression.
Standing inside, surrounded by solid rock, it's easy to imagine the generations of pilgrims, sailors and travellers who paused here long before us.
The present chapel dates mainly from the 13th century, although it almost certainly stands on the site of a much earlier place of worship.
Rather than being built on top of the cliffs, it has been constructed directly into a natural cleft in the limestone, making it appear almost part of the landscape itself.
Outside, visitors often search for the famous Bell Stone. Tradition says that if you can lift it while making a wish, your wish will come true. Others claimed it once rang by itself before important events. I had a look for it but somehow managed to miss it, so that's something to look out for if I ever return!
Just outside the chapel is St Govan's Well, a small spring that has long been associated with healing. Pilgrims are thought to have visited the well for centuries, believing its waters could cure ailments and bring good health. Whether you believe the old traditions or not, it is another fascinating reminder of the chapel's long history.
Its isolated position has helped preserve its unique character, and it is remarkable to think that people have been making this journey for hundreds of years.
The steps leading down to the chapel have their own legend.
Ask different people how many there are and you'll probably get different answers. Local folklore says that no one ever counts the same number twice. Whether that's because of the uneven layout, losing count while admiring the view, or something a little more mysterious, I'll let you decide!
One thing is certain though, climbing back up those steps is far harder than walking down them!
St Govan's Chapel may be one of the smallest chapels in Britain, but it leaves a lasting impression.
Whether you visit because of its history, its legends, its architecture or simply its breathtaking location, it is one of those places that stays with you long after you've climbed the steps back to the clifftop.
Places like St Govan's Chapel remind us that history isn't confined to museums – sometimes it's hidden halfway down a cliff.
Linda
